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Smart Plus electrolysis system


Preguntas frecuentes sobre Smart Plus electrolysis system

I have a 60-cubic-meter pool and an old Smart Plus electrolysis system with low chlorine output. How do I know whether I should replace the cell or just adjust the salt level?

To verify performance, first measure the actual water salinity before replacing components. The Smart Plus electrolysis system requires a constant concentration of 4 to 6 g/l to produce free chlorine normally.

Follow these technical inspection steps:

  • Measure the salinity with a reliable analyzer before adjusting the control panel.
  • Visually inspect the titanium electrodes for adhering limescale deposits.
  • Check whether the equipment signals insufficient flow via the flow switch.

If the salinity is correct and there is no limescale between the plates, the electrode has reached the end of its service life and needs a compatible replacement cell.

What preventive maintenance does the Smart Plus electrolysis system need?

Preventive maintenance for the Smart Plus electrolysis system consists of periodically cleaning the cell, checking the electrical connectors, and inspecting the flow sensor at the start of each season. Although it incorporates polarity reversal to dislodge limescale, water with a hardness above 300 ppm causes mineral deposits that reduce conductivity.

To extend the equipment’s service life, use compatible chemicals that do not damage the ruthenium coating on the plates. You can apply Algiklean1.1 kg. , Special algaecide for salt electrolysis. to prevent cloudiness without altering the water’s conductivity.

The flow sensor on my Smart Plus 42350 chlorinator has broken. Can I install any generic flow switch?

Using universal sensors that are not calibrated for this unit’s thread and electronics is not recommended. The AstralPool flow switch with a specific insertion thread, reference 71124 and body SKU 4408041122, ensures precise contact closure when the filtration pump sends flow to the cell.

An incompatible sensor can give false water flow readings. If the cell produces chlorine without a continuous flow of water, gas buildup creates overpressure and the risk of thermal breakage of the transparent vessel.

What is the difference between an original cell and a compatible one for Smart Plus?

The main difference lies in the thickness of the noble metal catalytic coating and the dimensional tolerance of the titanium plates. An original self-cleaning cell guarantees between 5,000 and 7,000 operating hours of sustained production, maintaining the electrical efficiency specified by the manufacturer.

Low-cost compatible plates tend to use thinner substrates, reducing their lifespan to less than half and accelerating degradation due to polarity reversal. In addition, certified cells fit precisely into the inlet fitting, preventing pressure leaks in the return pipe.

I’ve noticed that the pH level keeps rising since I started using salt chlorination. What accessory do I need to install?

The gradual increase in pH is a chemical side effect of electrolysis, caused by the continuous production of caustic soda and hydroxyl ions at the cathode. To keep the water balanced between 7.2 and 7.4 without daily manual adjustments, an automatic dosing pump connected to a continuous-reading probe is required.

Integrating a device such as the Tekna AKS 603 Standard NHP Dosing Pump allows liquid pH reducer to be injected according to the pool’s exact needs, protecting the electrodes from premature scale buildup.

How can I check whether the water parameters are correct for saltwater electrolysis?

The parameters should be checked using photometric equipment or test strips calibrated for specific salinity ranges. The water should be kept at a salinity of 4 to 6 g/l, a pH of 7.2 to 7.4, and a cyanuric acid level below 30 ppm to avoid blocking the disinfectant.

To take accurate free chlorine and pH readings in your pool, you can use the Scuba II Pool Photometer, ensuring reliable digital measurements before recalibrating your salt system’s output.

I installed a new cell, but the control panel indicates a salt shortage even though I added the required bags. What’s wrong?

This issue is usually caused by salt not dissolving completely or by the water temperature being below 15 degrees Celsius, which affects the electrical conductivity detected by the plates. When the water is cold, the system interprets the lower current flow as a shortage of salt, even when the concentration is adequate.

Check these three technical points:

  • Let the water circulate for 24 hours before switching on the electrode after adding salt.
  • Check the water temperature with a thermometer to confirm that it is above the operating threshold.
  • Check that the electrical connections on the cell head are tight.

Once these checks are complete, the detector will stabilize its conductivity measurement without requiring any additional adjustments on the control panel.

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